“Spiking” open low-security electronic safe lock…
Remove the keypad…
Locate the solenoid or motor wires and split them apart if necessary…
…attach a Spike Kit probe to each conductor…
Twist the probe sleeves, alternating between the two probes until the insulation is cut through on both wires and you have continuity…
Switch from the Continuity to the Spike It function, sending 9V to the solenoid or motor…
A solenoid will work with either polarity, but a motor may run the wrong way.
If your handle doesn’t turn, hit Reverse Polarity and the motor will reverse direction and unlock the safe. Turn the handle, open the door and disconnect the alligator clips.
Most of these safes will have a reset button inside and a new combination can be set – which is another attack vector for these safes. This one could probably be reached with some sort of L-tool if you knew where it was or could locate it…
Notice the solenoid in the above pic. It’s mounted VU. If you needed to open this one you could probably “bounce” it. The solenoid shaft is spring loaded.
Smack the safe on the top (the heel of a shoe should work) and turn the handle. When you get the timing right the handle will turn and the door will open.
A safe company once delivered two safes for me if I would open a dozen hotel safes for them. The door bolts were spring loaded. I discovered if I dropped them on the floor on the hinge side from about 6”, the door would fall open!
I spiked this safe to open it. I had opened this hotel safe model before by picking the crucifix lock, located under the gold “Challenger” plate. This one however had a higher security, lever lock. I needed to drill a hole in the door to the left of plate to access the motor wires and spike it. I heard the motor run briefly, but the door would not open. I hit the “Reverse Polarity switch and the motor ran again and the door was open.
This safe failed because of an incorrect battery choice. Some safes need Energizer batteries (like this one), and some require Duracell’s. I can explain that!